Wed 23 Jun 2004
My knees are still popping every time I sit down, and I can´t even look at my hiking boots. We returned last night to Huaraz from one of the most incredible backpacking trips of my life (and I think my compañeros agree with that superlative).
We set out at six Saturday morning, after splurging seven dollars each on a room with a roaring hot shower and comfy mattress. Five cramped hours in a combi (a sort of mini-bus that picks up everyone, anyone and their pet deer along the way) deposited us at the one-house town of Vaquería, where we set off into a valley to begin the four-day trek to Cochapampa, about 60 km down the Santa Cruz river.
Along the way, we passed between towering glacier-capped mountains, drank freezing (and iodined) water fresh from streams, and got giggly with altitude silliness as we passed the hike´s high point, Punta Union, at 15,550 feet above sea level. Our second campsite was the highest spot I´d ever slept, at nearly 15,000, and we were playing cards while huddled in down sleeping bags and wool hats by sundown at 6:30, asleep at 8.
We ate well, slept ok (one night Lindsay and I were sure a bear was attacking, we were up for hours not knowing what to do, only to find out in the morning that free-roaming cows had been jangling our pots and pans), and walked through stop-and-stare scenery five or six hours a day. The fresh mountain air, hot midday sun and good conversation made for four blissfull days in the splendor of the natural world. If it weren´t for our aching bodies, we might have stretched the trip a few more days.
There are 20 more photos posted on shutterfly, just click here.

The pictures start in northern Peru, at the ruins around Trujillo, the office complex of Chan Chan (they had bureaucracy 1500 years ago! At least they didn´t have to put up with fax machines), and the incredible painted walls of Huaca de la Luna. They continue with shots from the hike. Enjoy!
Tonight we´re off to Lima, wish us comfortable seats.
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